Wax Questions.

That all depends on what are you making:

• If you making container candles in glassware or tins etc we recommend using GW 464or SoyaLuna container wax. Both of these are excellent waxes and are easy to use.
• If you are making a pillar candles, melts or using silicone moulds we recommend SoyaLuna Pillar/tart blend.

Please click here for our blog post about the different types of wax you can use for candle making to read more in-depth information on the different waxes.

Under each of our specific product pages in the description, we list the amount of wax each container will need to fill it. If you have containers that are not listed on our website you can watch our short video here, that has step by step instructions.

This is called 'frosting'. It is a natural occurrence in vegetable waxes, particularly soy, and shows just how much natural soy wax your blend contains. The more pure your soywax the more frosting you will get. It can be controlled by pour temperature and by properly storing your candles after they have been poured. Please read our blog for more information.

This common phenomenon is called 'wet spotting'. It occurs when your candle expands and contracts after it has been poured. Like so many other candle issues, it is related to pour and storage temperature. When your candles have cooled sufficiently, store them inside a cardboard box inside a cupboard where the temperature will remain fairly constant. This will help minimise not only wet spotting but also frosting. Please read our blog for more information on wetspotting.

This can occur for several reasons. The main culprit is pour temperature. Sometimes pouring too hot, particularly in hot weather, slows down the cooling process so much that the wax produces large solid crystals. Sometimes if you have poured too cool, the wax doesn't have time or enough temperature to break apart these crystals and stay liquid.

Change your pour temperature in small increments and keep a diary. Make note of the weather as this can be a huge factor in how your candle sets.

Sometimes in candlemaking there are just things you don't need to worry about, and the small raised lump around your wick is one of them. As your candle dries, some of the wax sticks to the wick and forms a small, lump around the wick. If it really bothers you, use your finger to press gently on the wax and it will smooth back down.

This crack is different from the small lump in the question above. This crack can be an indication of something more sinister underneath. Read our blog to find out what is the cause.

This is because you are using 100% soy wax. Rough tops after burning are normal and nothing you should be concerned about. Candles that have a smooth top after burning contain paraffin which is the ingredient that gives the candle a smooth, glossy finish.

This is commonly called 'sweating' and some soy waxes are prone to it more than others. Sweating is a result of the fragrance seeping out of the wax and beading on the surface. It usually occurs when the candle becomes a little hot, when it's in a hot room for example or travelling in a car. Keep your candle cool and out of direct sunlight.

This can also occur if you use too much fragrance. Again it is more prone to happen with some waxes more than others. Make sure you follow the manufacturers recommendations on fragrance load for the specific wax you are using.

In essence, 'no!' It is a natural, plant based product so the manufacturer puts a 'best used within 1 year' on the box as this is when the wax is at is absolute peak. Your soy wax will not go 'off' and can be used many, many years later, after the one year date. Many candle makers often blame their wax being 'out of date' for the issues they are having, however we have not ever come across one problem that was a result of the age of the wax. It is always user error or temperature related.

This phenomenon usually occurs in summer. Although it can be a fragrance incompatibility with the wax it is more than likely due to moisture. Soy wax is manufactured and packaged into boxes lined with plastic bags. They are then transported all around the world into different climates. The wax can 'sweat' and become hot inside the plastic causing a build up of moisture. Sometimes this moisture is not all that visible until you pour your candles and they don't set properly. If you are in a warm climate or your wax is stored somewhere that is warm, always open the box/bag up and let it sit and dry out before use. This should eliminate your 'cauliflower' candles

Luckily you have several options. The most common method is by 'double boiler' on the stove. Like melting chocolate, place water on the stove and bring it to a low simmer, then place another pot with wax over the water pot. This method is useful for beginners who are first starting out. Never place the wax directly on the heat as this is the surest way to burn your wax.

You can also melt your wax in the microwave with a heat safe jug. This method requires full attention and should only be done in short bursts. Make sure you stir the wax thoroughly after each session in the microwave to evenly distribute the heat. This method is suitable for small amounts of wax.

When pouring larger quantities of candles you want to melt larger amounts of wax so wax melters come in quite handy. They are bigger, commercial grade units that are either water jacketed or direct heat. As most come with a thermostat there is less risk of burning the wax.

Our favourite wax for moulds, both aluminium, acrylic and silicone is the SoyaLuna melt/pillar wax. It is a harder wax that will release easily from the mould and has a beautiful, creamy and glossy finish.